Long Love Denim
Across the visual landscape, denim is everywhere. So much so, it’s now invisible. It’s the default. Even talking about denim should evoke the image of blue pants due to the textile's popularity. The history of denim begins with the history of the U.S. laborer: the farmer, the ranch hand, the railroad worker—anyone and everyone who spent long hours outdoors among fields and frontiers. Denim bib overalls, denim button-down shirts, Wranglers, Levi’s, Carhartt, and Lee’s. That’s what they had, that’s what they could afford, and that’s what would last.
What is Denim & Common Misconceptions
Contrary to popular belief, denim is a type of woven twill pattern, though culturally it’s become synonymous with jeans. Most denim is made from 100% cotton, but there are some variants of wool and silk blends. Denim's classic blue color is due to the dying process, where one strand is dyed indigo and the other left white, creating the classic twill look—blue on the front, white on the back. A twill pattern is a woven structure where horizontal threads (wefts) pass under vertical threads (the warp) in a 3:1 ratio. Depending on the pattern’s direction, it creates a diagonal facing left to right (left-hand twill), right to left (right-hand twill), or an asymmetric pattern (broken twill).
So, what’s the difference between jeans and denim? Denim is a fabric; jeans are a garment made from that fabric, typically reinforced with double-stitching and rivets for durability. These metal reinforcements at stress points make jeans particularly long-lasting.
Like many textiles, denim comes in various weights and degrees of processing. Raw denim is untreated—straight from the loom—and tends to be heavier. Most commercial denim garments are mid-weight or lightweight for breathability. Heavyweight denim is often used for garments designed to withstand significant wear, like work pants, jackets, and button-down shirts. Stretchy or skinny jeans are usually made from lightweight fabrics designed for comfort.
Selvedge denim is a high-quality, harder-to-produce type of denim made on shuttle looms. It's typically unwashed and unprocessed, with clean, self-finished edges. This is where it gets its name "selvedge," from "self-edge." Garments made from selvedge denim are cut more precisely, reducing waste and are signal of craftsmanship.
The History of Denim
In Denim: The Fabric That Built America 1935–1994 by Graham Marsh and Tony Nourmand, curated photos from the Farm Security Administration archive, stitching together breathtaking portraits of the U.S. labor force. It was a time when men and women worked as miners, felled trees, rode the rails, and raised cattle. Even the carvers of Mt. Rushmore were clad in denim. Known as the color of the working class, blue was the cheapest dye to produce, giving rise to the term “blue collar.” Denim became a second skin for those digging into the earth, laying railroad ties, or manning the heat. These jeans weren’t fashion—they were function, armor against sweat and strain. Every faded line and fray became a quiet record of labor, not written on paper but worn into the fabric itself.
Early jeans lacked reinforcement, leading laborers to frequently rip and replace them. Canvas was often used, but the garment design couldn’t withstand heavy use. Jacob Davis, a tailor frequently tasked with repairs, began reinforcing stress points with copper rivets. Lacking the funds to patent his innovation, he partnered with Levi Strauss. On May 20, 1873, the modern riveted denim jean debuted. When you compare the original design to today’s version, little has changed. Zippers eventually replaced button flies, and rivet placement moved inside the pant after cowboys complained they their scratched saddles.
Since then, denim has only grown more iconic. In the 1950s, it became a symbol of youth rebellion, often paired with leather jackets to emulate Marlon Brando or James Dean. In 1955, Rebel Without a Cause helped inject U.S. denim culture into Japan. After WWII, American soldiers left behind jeans that were sold in Japanese street markets, introducing denim to Japan. Denim became a symbol of postwar youth rebellion in Japan, especially among the “Taiyōzoku” rebellious subculture. Seeing an opportunity, Tetsuo Oishi, son of Oishi Trading Co.’s founder, imported 30,000 Levi’s denim looms to meet growing demand.
As American brands shifted to mass production in the late 1960s, Japanese artisans—drawing on their deep textile traditions—began producing high-quality selvedge denim using shuttle looms from Toyoda Automatic Loom Works. Vintage Levi’s met Japanese craftsmanship, influencing denim wearers globally.
Shop A-Priori’s Premium Denim Collection
At A-Priori, we take denim seriously. We understand the philosophy and craftsmanship behind a great pair of jeans, denim button-downs, or a denim jacket. Over time, denim gets to know your body better than you do. It softens and breathes. In the U.S., we spend a lot of time in denim. Eventually, it becomes that “special pair,” the “perfect fit.” So why not choose denim that completes your capsule wardrobe?
Here are some of our favorite denim brands:
Blue Blue Japan
Located in Harajuku, Tokyo, Blue Blue Japan specializes in handmade garments that incorporate traditional Japanese construction techniques, such as pure indigo and natural dyeing. The deep, saturated blue fades over time, adapting to the wearer’s body and lifestyle. The brand designs clothing that’s comfortable and suggests a sense of warmth and longevity.
Nudie Jeans Co.
Founded in Gothenburg, Sweden, in 2001, Nudie Jeans Co. is committed to making jeans that last. Nudie views denim as a “second skin” that improves with age. Its wear-and-tear philosophy centers around garments living as long as their owners—maybe longer. Nudie also values the ideals and community of denim lovers. They want you to pass your jeans down, creating future classics.
orSlow
Based in Hyogo, Japan, orSlow is devoted to designing clothes “slowly.” Founder Ichiro Nakatsu aims to counteract the frantic pace of fast fashion. Their iconic jeans, among other garments, require time-intensive techniques rooted in utility and tradition. orSlow reflects Nakatsu’s appreciation for military-inspired garments as both functional and fashionable. “Slowly” for orSlow means building adaptable, enduring clothes that resist today’s throwaway culture.
Here are some of our favorite one-off pieces:
UMBRO: Hybrid Cargo Pants Washed Black
BOILER ROOM: Printed 5 Pocket Jean Black
RICE NINE TEN: Faded Painter Jeans Blue
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Looking for high-quality denim? A-Priori sources pieces that honor craftsmanship, durability, and individuality. Whether you're into raw Japanese selvedge or a perfectly broken-in fade, explore A-Priori’s collection online here.